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The morning of 16 September brought promising weather in the midst of what has been a particularly unsettled spell on West Somerset. I decided to ride on the open top bus that runs between Minehead and Lynmouth. Some cloud did appear along the way and the wind was rather chilly but it stayed dry and visibility was good. The journey is a spectacular one, with breathtaking views both coast and inland. The bus has to negotiate Porlock hill a notorious, long climb onto Exmoor with hairpin bends and a 25% gradient. There is an equally steep descent of Countisbury Hill into Lynmouth.where the road is on the edge of the sheer coastal cliff. Riding on the open upper deck of the bus feels like coming in to land in an aircraft.
On the bus - looking towards Minehead from the top of Porlock Hill |
Having landed safely in Lynmouth I had a few hours before getting the bus back.
Having had a look around Lynmouth I walked up the cliff path to Lynton which is a larger town. Of course, it is much easier to hop on the water powered cliff railway, but it felt like cheating! It was quite easy to find the path that runs above the floor of the West Lyn valley to Lyn Bridge. Perched above the river here, is a pub here called "The Bridge". Sadly, it was closed down in the day I passed. I crossed the nearby stone footbridge and took a path leading north. This climb steadily through woods and eventually turns to the east and leads to Summer House Hill. Once clear of the trees there are fine views over Lynton.
Lynton from Summer House Hill |
The path continues above the deeply incised valley of the East Lyn. One stretch zig-zags downhill and crosses a stream that tumbles down the steep slope in a series of waterfalls before climbing back up to the rim of the valley. The path leads eventually to Hillsford Bridge, but I took a turning to the north towards Watersmeet. This branch took me first down a section where wooden steps have been constructed. From here there are fine views across the gorge including rocky outcrops with scree below. The path continued across an open space on less steep land. Here,in an area known as Myrtleberry, the ground has been disturbed by human activity dating from the Iron Age. Having passed the old settlement the path descends through steep woodland to the A39 road that runs along the East Lyn gorge, emerging in a car park on the downstream side of Watersmeet House.
Myrtleberry and crags across the valley |
I turned to head west, back towards Lynmouth. Although a main road, the A39 was not particularly busy. However, after a few minutes walk the chance arose to leave the road. A sign indicates that there is access for canoes but the opening in the wall leads down to a path that runs below the road. Following this, a wooden footbridge was soon reached and the walk continued towards Lynmouth along the opposite bank.
The steepness of the gorge and the great size of the boulders in the watercourse give testament to the ferocity with which the water can flow. In 1952, after exceptionally heavy rain, the East and West Lyn rivers rose and carried a mass of boulders and fallen trees down the confined valleys. The torrent and its associated debris, claimed the lives of 34 people and destroyed part of Lynmouth along with other homes and structures in the Lyn valleys. There is a scale model of Lynmouth, in the Flood Memorial Hall, showing how the town looked pre-flood. This is supported by photographs and newspaper items telling the story.
Footbridge across the East Lyn river |
In the absence of a flood the walk back to Lynmouth was a pleasant one. By now the sun was out again so the bus ride back to Minehead was brighter. The walk was just short of 5 miles and took me a leisurely 2hr 30mins
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